This...

This almost kept my car off the road...because of the lamp inspection for the DMV. More to come on this story.

Wheel me Baby

Ok, after work at my companies warehouse I have been starting the wheel restoration project. Filed out most of the cracks yesterday...today started to use the POR-15 to fill in the cracks (not a good project to start in my work clothes). So far I have learned a little goes a long way. I also went for the big-missing piece chip first. More to come...on the progress. Luckily, I have another wheel to use in the car till this is done....it may take me a while.

Engine After

After




Before

Home-Made Recycled Kick-Plates

Made from recycled sign foam core from my work, recycled fabric and a cardboard pattern I put together myself. Lots of adhesive and trimming, found a perfect fit...









Dum-Dum and plastic

Upholstery Done

Upholstery Done, 3-days, $350 and exactly how I described I wanted it...
Beautiful. By O&R Auto Upholstery, El Sobrante Ca. 510-724-0233

Front End Complete

I did all the wiring for the headlights, and front turn signals.



Got the bumper on. That was a two person and a floor jack job. The bumper is very heavy and trying to get all the pieces and bolts to line up is a task on its own. The bezels needed to be buffed up to go with the 'new' front bumper. I used the wheel and some fine cleaner. The bumper is 'new' thanks to a connection CHP has, that took 3 bumper cores and traded for an immaculate one.

I switched out the tires that were on loan with the brand new wheels that were hand painted by Mike Taylor from Gemini Motors (BTW: he does complete restoration work as well in the East Bay, Alameda miketaylor@geminimotors.us)





The Scuff plates I had were pretty beat up so I got to use a dolly and a hammer to get it back into shape. Finished the painting of the rear view mirror (inner part is black to go with interior/outer engine red for some bling), scuff plates and windshield wiper motor.

This all took about 6 hrs. Its amazing how time consuming this stuff can be especially when they just don't go back on like they come off...or the replacement screws and clips just aren't right...or if parts are flying thru the air.

Hands On

Now that most of the big mechanical stuff is done care of 'Classic Hot-Rod Performance' , gettin' down to some of the items I can get my hands on...installed sound insulation, carpet kit, went thru almost 3 cans of spray on adhesive and was 'high as a kite' from the fumes...still peeling off glue from my hands...but my favorite quote of the day had to be from the guy at OSH when I was buying more adhesive. 'Did you spray it on your hand, smells like glue'...umm duh well it was all over my hands but it wasn't like I was testing it out in the store or something...Did some bolting/screwing interior pieces, glove box trim etc., windshield wiper parts, prep / cleaned parts for painting and even did some random painting - chose to make the back of the rear-view mirror the Ford red to go with the engine red.

The Truth on the Engine

When the engine was pulled the numbers on the engine were ran and it is a 1954 - 239 engine and some of the parts are from a 292. Explains why some of the tune-up parts wouldn't fit...More to come on this...

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The Y-block engine is an overhead valve V8 automobile piston engine from Ford Motor Company. It was introduced in 1954 to replace the side-valved Ford Flathead engine and was replaced by the Ford FE engine (on larger cars) and the Ford Windsor engine (on smaller cars) in 1962, and lasted until 1964 in Ford trucks

The first Y-block was the 1954 239 in³ (3.9 L) Ford engine; known for its deep skirting which causes the engine resemble a Y. Rated at 130 hp (97 kW), it replaced the 239 in³ (3.9 L) Flathead which was rated at 106 hp (79 kW). The Y-block was considered a major advancement over the flathead. Known for having oiling problems in the rocker shafts due to the fact the oil first went to the crankshaft bearing, then the camshaft bearings, then to the rocker shafts. This problem plagued the entire Y-block family and could be remedied by running a copper line from the oil pump and then to the rocker shafts. This series of engines also lacked the breathing abilities compared to the Chevrolet 265 small block, thus could not develop the same power.

The oiling problem was caused by the passage from the center cam bearing to the cylinder head being offset by an inch and too small. The motor oils available at that time were low in detergents but high in coke which when combined with short trips and infrequent oil changes led to this passage blocking up. This left the lower end with ample oil while the rocker shaft assemblies literally burned up. The external oiler kit essentially provided oil to the rocker shafts from the oil pressure port on the outside of the engine.

A quick reference of the engine specifications for 1955-57 will show the Ford V-8s ahead of the Chevrolet counterpart in displacement, horsepower and torque. The Y-block head provided excellent air flow, superior to the Chevrolet. The real enemy of the Y-block was its displacement limit. The original architecture was very small and tight. Even with the benefit of today's technology, (aftermarket rods and stroker cranks) the real limit of a Y-block is about 348 cubic inches while the Chevrolet could go well past the factory limit of 400. Simply put, the ever increasing size and weight of the standard passenger car, the added parasitic losses for accessories like power steering, power brakes and air conditioning, cheap gasoline and the horsepower race all conspired to outgrow the first Ford OHV V-8 engine. It is interesting to note that both Ford and Chevrolet went to optional "big block" engines for 1958, 352 in³ (5.8 L) at Ford compared to 348 in³ (5.7 L) at Chevrolet.

The Girl Behind the Car

Cow Palace January 2007 - Hot Rod Portion of the Show, I like my 'Jack'

6/18/06 Impromptu photos shoot at an SF Car show with one of the car club boys. My boyfriend was getting filmed for --> YahooCurrents
I went to ask the car club boy to turn down his radio while they were filming, he said, 'go ahead and turn it off yourself' and that's when one of the event photographers set up the shots.

Look 'Nameless' Gets a New Pair of Shoes

The Rims / Tires took a lot of thought on my part. Wanted to go back to the original 'rat-rod red rims' that were on the car when I bought it. But literally after a dream I decided to go black with red pin stripping accents.

But it took much longer to decide to go 'Coker' thick white walls or regular 'white walls' (also considered the red walls).

After much discussion with various car people, I decided against the consensus who preferred 'Coker'. Considering the price of the 'Coker Tires' against one's I can buy off the shelf, get insured, replace the same day I decided to stick with regular 'white walls'. Plus, I think the tires become too much of a focal point with the 'Coker's' and I am still looking to define the 'point' elsewhere on the car.

So 'Nameless' got a new pair of shoes for Christmas with hand-painted, pin stripping by Mike Taylor, Gemini Motorworks



That's my kitten 'EPIC' that I rescued, peeking thru the rim...

000001, Nameless Begins, Again

000001



Care of
'Classic Hot-Rod Performance'

Freeze Plugs Replaced

Before Photo
Engine freeze plugs replaced on Nameless 12/17/06.

Freeze plug

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Freeze plugs are a subset of the plugs on a car engine cylinder block or cylinder head. The traditional plug is a thin, domed, disc of metal which fits into a machined hole in the casting and is secured by striking or pressing the centre to expand the disc.

A true Freeze Plug is an expansion plug located in the side of an engine block that is supposed to protect the block against freeze damage. Water expands when it turns to ice, and if the coolant doesn't have enough antifreeze protection it can freeze and crack the engine block. The freeze plugs (there are usually several) are supposed to pop out under such conditions to relieve the pressure on the block.

Most of the plugs to be found on an engine are actually to plug the holes where sand cores have been held. The sand cores are used in the casting process to form internal cavities in the engine block or cylinder head, for cooling water for example, and so should really be refered to as core plugs.

Freeze/core plugs can often be a source of troublesome leaks as a result of internal cooling system corrosion. Ease of replacement depends on accessibility. In many cases the plug area will be difficult to reach and using a mallet to perform maintenance or replacement will be nearly impossible without special facilities. Expanding rubber plugs are available as replacements when access is a problem.

A variety of block heater called a "freeze plug heater" can be installed, replacing the freeze plugs, to warm the engine before start up.

Talk about Plug Replacements

West Coast Rancheros

And so it begins...I am starting a club

Nameless - 4 months later

Friends of Nameless

Northern Cali Rancheros 1st crusie in, Alameda Ca 10/14/06

I ended up hosting the 1st No Cal Ranchero meet-up at the Alameda Naval base. It wasn't my intital idea but I ran with it. We were suppose to meet at the Alameda Swap meet but apparently they cancelled the event and only the vendors knew. I decided to stick it out and host the event in my work parking lot anyways. We had about 6 Rancheros that came and went. There was about five us who stuck around and enjoyed the BBQ. And people who drove from as far as Davis / Santa Rosa to be there. It was funny that we had a lot of people drive in to the lot thinking we were the swap meet.

Rods and Wheels has hosted some shots for us and we do all believe this is the beginning of a good thing.

Rods N Wheels

My Event Photos

One Door Done, another to go...

I was graced with some wonderful assistants today and one of my doors now locks and closes with the orginal hardware.

This is really a great project I have taken on. Some were a little skepticle at first unsure why the heck I would do such a random thing like purchase a project car. But being outdoors, getting dirty and meeting wonderful talented people - who wouldn't want to do it?

I am excited to take on each little project. I might not know how to do it like the pros but by working with people, asking questions and just going for it I am learning a lot.

Its like being back in school and its giving my brain a healthy work out.

Rust and Power Tools

Yesterday, I scraped off rust from the inside of my roof with a wire brush and wiped it down with paint thinner for any extra oils and dirt. And, yes my arms hurt a bit the next day.

Today I pulled out my dads old overalls, bandanna, ball cap worn backwards, face mask and safety goggles (had a doctors face shield/mask but went with goggles but they fogged up a bit) and set-out to use the "Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Black Aerosol 16 oz. Item No. 16060 Z" on the inside of my roof. I considered using "POR-15" but considering the application being upside down I went for the Aerosol.

Before the application I lined the inside of my car with a plastic drop sheet, I should have went to the store to get painters tape but I used what I had on hand a box of binder clips which actually worked out perfectly (pictures will be posted later).

The spray went on really well! By the time I left it looked like it would dry evenly and only need one coat. I managed to get one smudge of paint on my face, unfortunately some up my noise the mask that I had did not keep the particles out, even being outside the fumes were definitely getting me high. So as more painting is needed I will get a better mask.

This took me very little time so I went back to the door hardware project. Empowered with a door handle removal tool certain things became much easier. I was only out done today because of my power tool! I got a Ryobi 7v which is not going to be beefy enough to get me thru a day since I don't currently have power right near the vehicle. I got about 3-screws on the door panels that are beyond screwing out naturally. I was able to use a drill bit (after breaking one) to get the first one out. If I wasn't so intent on moving this part of the project along I should probably go out and buy a hole saw but than I got to think about sizes etc. It appears I made it past the threads with no problem and if the other one's don't work out well these parts can be welded down because they don't need to come off again in my life time.

PS. I learned that 'Deep Woods Off' gets POR-15 off skin. I am sure I will end up using POR-15 on other parts and I will try that if my paint gear doesn't protect me.

Bay Area Ranchero Meet-up Sunday, October 15th

Bay Area Ranchero Meet-up Sunday, October 15th
We are planning to meet-up in the parking lot of the Alameda, Calif. Swap Meet. http://www.turnkeyprod.com/showdates.html

Contact me for more info.
info@thenetworkgirl.com

Nameless gets some bling

I made this from the extra gauge panel trim and a broken Ranchero emblem